Budapest

Where to begin, where to begin. Sometimes the longer you wait to post something, the harder it is to decide what to write about.

I'm a little late in posting since I didn't take my computer this last weekend. Remember that mental note in Zagreb about needing to pack lighter? Yeah, I took it to heart.

We had 4 days off this past weekend and I chose to go to Hungary with my friend Yuqi (pronounced, Yoo-chee). We went to the train station and found a direct train to Budapest. And, boy was that a blessing. On the way there, we soon realized, as much as we don't know German, it looks comprehensible compared to Hungarian. We're so glad we didn't have to worry about getting off and on at the right stops. We just waited until the end of the line, a mere 5 hour train ride later.

Our tour guide, Balazs with King Stephan

When we arrived at the train station, we immediately found the traveler's haven, the big blue i, aka information center. We soon got our tourist guide and a bought a Budapest Card which gave us free city transportation, 2 tours (1 of Buda, and 1 of Pest), free admittance to museums, and a free entry to the Lukas Bath House. I think it was a really good deal and recommend it to anyone who winds up traveling to Budapest.

As fate would have it we arrived at our super cheap hostel (6 € each per night, go us!) to find out it's a film and arts dorm that's being used as a hostel during the summer. Can't get away from the fact that I'm an arts student, can I...

It was easier to write as things were going on, so here's an entry from my journal---
So it's been a good 2nd day in Budapest. It's very hot, and very sunny. It might break 100 degrees today. Unfortunate that I forgot my sunglasses in our room. We took a tour of Old Buda (on the west side of the Danube River). It was smaller than I imagined. Most of the "important" buildings were across the river on the Pest side. The one government building that is still there is the President's building. We got to see the changing of the guards, which was pretty neat. The drummer smiled at me as they marched by :)

Apparently there are only 4 original buildings left on the Buda side after the WWII bombings. Many have been rebuilt, others left to remember the destruction that happened here.

We had a hard time finding the metro after lunch. We had goulash soup, again.

Goose Liver Pate, yummm!

Goulash No. 1

Goulash No. 2

Tiramisue 

It was different than last night's, but just as good. I realize the fountains and monuments can distract you so that you completely miss the very thing you're looking for, like the entrance to the underground metro... whoops.

Opera House

The King, and now president, is the only one allowed in that booth

We took a tour of the opera house, which was worth it if nothing else for the historical guide. It was absolutely beautiful, but it made it so much better understanding what was going on during the time they were building it. Particularly why they did what they did with the construction. The attention to detail is not like anything you see any more. Vienna was the capitol of the Austrian-Hungarian empire at the time, and Budapest was the next largest city. Realizing the relationship between Budapest and Vienna, I now very much want to see Vienna. The opera house, by royal command was not supposed to be bigger than the opera house in Vienna. On opening night, the Emperor came and then left half way through the performance. He never again came back to Opera house, though his wife, Queen Sissy came often for social purposes. They say he never returned because he was angry that he neglected to say that the building couldn't be more beautiful than Vienna. ---"In all fairness, oh King, you only said it couldn't be bigger..."---

We traveled to the Art Museum in Hero Square. The whole square was built to commemorate the 1000 year anniversary of the settling(?) of Budapest.

Our last day, Monday we had time to see Parliament (which is on the east bank of the Danube) before we caught our train back to Graz. We got to see the crown and scepter of their first King, King Stephen, which from what I understand, had been used for all king coronations since then. The legacy of "things" here continues to astonish me. Something that's been used for such a specific purpose, much less has survived for over 1000 years,  takes my breath away. And... I'm okay with that.

The outside is always under cleaning construction due to the nature of the materials

We also saw St. Stephen's Basilica. Which, random fact, contains the right hand of St./King Stephen. I passed on paying money to see that. I instead saw the inside of the church which is the most beautiful church I've seen, yet.

Outside

Side Wing

Center of the church, with dome above

  

Concert No. 3- Schlossberg

Inside the concert hall- it was an old prison.

So, concert no. 3 tonight at the Schlossberg, Graz's initial fortress and town center during the middle ages. The concert hall is an old converted prison. The prison cells, now private booths, can be seen in the picture. The music this concert is amazing by itself, but in a place like this, it's taken to a whole new level of life.

Tomorrow is our 4 day break and I'm taking the 6 am (eeek!) direct train to Budapest with a friend. I can't wait. People keep giving me ideas for things to do, and I can't see how we'll be able to do it all in 4 days. Everyone says its an usual but beautiful city.

I'll write more later as I need to get dressed and ready for the concert. We're playing a lot of Verdi, Mozart's Don Giovanni (my favorite!) and some Beethoven and Handel. It's a difficult program for keeping up the energy and focus, but a wonderful program to play. Tchuss!

The view from the tram to the top of the mountain. Guten Tag, Graz!

Zagreb

We left Pula Sunday morning and arrived in Zagreb later that afternoon. We had tried to contact our new friend Ivanna, the art curator we met on the train on Friday, but for some reason her phone wasn’t working. She had invited us to stay with her when we came back to Zagreb and we were hoping to take her offer or at least hang out with her for the day. We didn’t actually get a hold of her until after we arrived at the place we booked in Zagreb at airbnb.com (which if you want a hostel alternative this is a great site).

We agreed to meet in main square after we got our next day’s train ticket. Along the way, we came across some beautiful monuments and fountains (taking pictures of course). When we got to the square, there was a local crafts market where I found some really beautiful pressed flower jewelry.  I bought a ring as a souvenir.

Our friend, Ivana

We found Ivanna and she gave us a tour around Zagreb showing us her favorite spots. Croatians are so warm and inviting. I have moments where I don't know how to respond because it's so unusual to me. 

The most exciting part for me was when we got to see the churches. Before coming to Europe, I had hoped that I would be able to experience local folk music and spontaneous music making. One moment where I experienced this was, on the way to Pula, the bus stopped at a gas station/restaurant rest stop. On the patio of the restaurant, there were lots of people playing music, singing, and dancing. I secretly hoped that we could have stayed and joined in, but unfortunately the bus was leaving again in 10 minutes. This is what I was hoping I’d come across in my travels. 

In Zagreb's St. Catherine’s Church, there was a folk music festival going on with a large choir in native Croatian dress singing religious folk music. It was so beautiful to listen to- if I wasn’t with other people I could have stayed all evening. I really hope that I get to experience more things like that.

St. Catherine's Church

Folk Music Festival Choir

I did have an interesting experience regarding the Croatian religious culture within the churches. I have wanted to be respectful of the fact that the churches we go in are places of worship. As a tourist, it’s easy to go in, snap a few pictures, and not really experience the place as it was intended: A place for humbling worship. I quickly realized, if I take pictures, I have to sit down, pray and worship or I miss the real experience of the church.

With that said, I walked into a church completely in awe of the unusual stained glass (it was about the seven days of creation, and the 4 elements earth, wind, fire, and water). An older woman came up to me and started scolding me in Croatian. I knew I was doing something wrong, but I had no idea what it was. Then she came up to me and lightly slapped my leg above my knee (I was wearing shorts). She then commenced to tell me in English that I should be ashamed of myself. It was quite an experience.

As we leave the church, Ivanna explains that it’s disrespectful for a woman to go into a church without covering her shoulders, arms, and legs. Whoops.

I’m just thankful that they allow tourists to come in to their place of worship at all. They could very well say no.

---------------------------------------

Well, this morning I got up and looked at my alarm and it said 7 am. I sat straight up, and woke Priscilla up saying we need to leave right now. Our train, and the only one to Graz for today, leaves at 7:25. My alarm, set for 6:15, didn't go off. With running, praying, riding the tram, and more praying and running we hopped on the train seconds before it left. We found our friends from AIMS in one of the cars and sat down sweating with heavy heaving. Thank you Jesus, we made it. Traveling en route to Pula I realized I packed way too much in my pack for this trip. But, running across Zagreb with my pack? I definitely packed too much. 

Mental Note No. 2: Pack for agility not obnoxiously over-preparedness.  

Zagreb in the evening

Pula

So at the moment I'm in Pula waiting for our bus to take us back to Zagreb. Pula has been amazing. Croatia in general has been amazing from the beginning, Priscilla and I both don't want this weekend to end. We still have one more day (we're leaving for Graz monday afternoon), which we plan using to see the monuments and museums in Zagreb.

We left Graz by train that morning at around 10:30 with two other friends from AIMS. We stopped in Zidani Most, Slovenia for a few hours waiting for our next train. We went seperate ways at the bus station in Zagreb, as they were going on to Split and we to Pula.

People have been so friendly, it's been really welcoming. On the train we sat in a car with a lady and her mother. We find out that the mother is a retired english teacher from Zagreb. The daughter is an art curator. We talk about the general dwindling support of artists and classical art. We decide we should all move to Brazil where the artists are all well supported. After the train ride, the art curator invites us to stay at her house when we return to Zagreb so we don't have to pay to stay at a hostel.

We arrived late Friday night after taking 2 trains and a bus to Pula. We walked past our hostel 2 times before seeing it. It was heavily under construction and looked like it was boarded up. We buzzed the front desk to open the outer doors for us. We were exhausted from traveling all day. Coming in to our room, we woke up 4 other girls. 2 from Holland and I can't remember where the other 2 were from. It was very cold in our room. It was the first time I've slept with air conditioning since coming to Europe. I loved it. But, unfortunately, it was too cold for my roommate (we didn't have blankets) so she couldn't sleep.

Saturday, we walked to the beach (45-60 minutes away) for the morning after breakfast. It was like the whole town was asleep, no one was up. On the way, we realized our map sucks. The rest of the day trying to explore the Roman ruins and monuments only confirmed our first impression.

I'll write/post pictures of the ruins, churches, and town later. But, for now here's pictures of the food. The seafood was delicious, the calamari especially was AMAZING!

Croatia

My first real weekend off is this weekend. Before writing this I changed my mind on where I was going and what I was going to do half a dozen times. It was borderline crazy frustrating and stressful, before slipping into a free spirited "whatever happens, happens" mentality.  Part of it has been out of my control and the other part, well, I just didn't know any better.

Now that I'm back from going to the train station, my roommate and I now have a one way ticket to Zagreb, Croatia. Within the past two days I thought I was going to Szombathely, Hungary to catch the last concert of the Bartok Festival followed by a trip to Vienna. After my roommate found out her plane ticket to Paris got canceled, we regrouped and decided to take our next weeks trip to Croatia, now. Flexibility is the name of the game. And might I add adaptablity sprinkled with courage?

The first obstacle was trying to find transportation. Since coming here, everyone has said cars were far cheaper than traveling by train if you could split them with other people. Seemed simple enough. Simple enough until actually driving them. Aha... Yes, apparently in Europe, all the cars they have are manual. A slight problem for your average automatic driving american such as myself. I have driven a manual all of 5 times, and that was last summer. Maybe a max of an hour behind the wheel. As much as I would like to tell myself I'm a quick learner, I don't think traipsing across European countries where you don't speak the language, in a vehicle you don't really know how to operate, is a wise idea. Yeah, probably not. The manual cars are close to 100 euros a day with rare availability, verses manuals which are a welcoming 30 euros a day. Mental note: Learn to drive stick when I get back to the states.

We moved on after calling over a dozen car rental places just trying to find an available automatic that wasn't 400 euros for the weekend. This was the part where I was stressed.

We regrouped. Again.

Time for me to look at this picture of this beautiful forrest I hiked through last week. See, better already.

We have since found a train that will take us where we'd like to go: A little time at the beach in Pula and then some time in the city Zagrab exploring Roman ruins and the like.

I feel like at the end of all this, I will be a guru european travel master. Or maybe I'll just be the ultimate zen master from learning to let all of this travel stress just slide off my back. Either way, I will become a master. Of something. I know it.

Which by the way, in Graz the European Choir Games going on right now. I sit by new people from all over Europe everyday at lunch. It's really cool, actually. Yesterday, I sat at a table with a guy and a girl from Latvia. They both knew Latvian, Russian, and English. Most people seem to know 2 if not 3 different languages. I think it's about time I start really learning a language. Like yesterday.

Schloss Eggenberg

So, you'll have to forgive me. I'm falling behind on posting; I'm just going to have to write about them when I have the time. At this point during festivals I usually fall off the blogging band wagon never to return till the last day. So, in comparison to times past, I'm doing well.

On Sunday (14th) we (AIMSers) were invited to a palace outside of Gras called the Schloss Eggenberg for a governors reception. We were quite honored to be invited to go. The paintings and rooms are so delicate, that human perspiration causes them to deteriorate. Functions then at the palace are extremely rare. Apparently Prince Ulrich von Eggenber built it with fantastic symbolism. The room we gathered in, called the planet room, with paintings and carvings of all the great planetary gods.

Planetary room

The planetary room 

There were a number of them across the gardens

I only found this out after I left, but apparently the outside towers were supposed to represent the 4 seasons, and there are 365 windows, one for each day of the year. The gardens were my favorite, with numerous beautiful wandering peacocks. And, did I mention, we all dressed up. I felt like I was on my way to a ball. It was pretty awesome :)

Walking up to the palace

My roomie in the courtyard

Prince Eggenberg's personal Chapel

Almost time for speeches

Can you tell that I already ate one?

This one was my favorite- yum!

she is too!

having a great time!

Good night, palace!

Language Barrier

So it was a given that I would inevitably have issues communicating since I don't know any German. But, I didn't expect to have such a problem with my own language. Like reading our handouts properly.

Wednesday (July 10), proved to be such a situation. 

Beautiful Courtyard

We had our first breakfast at Gösser, the restaurant across the street. It was delicious: Sausages, Eggs, Bacon, Rolls, and Juice. After breakfast, my roommate (who is awesome by the way, deserving of her own post later) and I went on the guided city walking tour. 3 hours later, and I was completely turned around as to where I was, not to mention exhausted. I was definitely feeling the jet lag. The guide ends the tour by taking us to our lunchtime cafeteria. None of us have any idea where the dorm is in relation to where the cafeteria is. 

I sit with some brass people (look at me broadening my social horizons!) and a cellist during lunch. I mention how I would really like to go the Survival German class at 1:30. Everyone else shows interest and I ask if anyone knows how to get back to the dorm. No one has a clue. 

We ask another AIMSer for directions to the dorm and we keep track of the turns and street names thinking we can do it. 35 minutes of walking later and we successfully arrive, whew! We arrive right at 1:30 and I'm looking around the lobby for any sign of people. Confused, wondering where everyone is, I'm thinking weren't we supposed to meet in the lobby? I ask one of the office people, and they don't know what I'm talking about. They pull out the official schedule, and it’s not on there. So, they don't know anything. 

Okay, not helpful. I find someone else who tells me that I was supposed to meet at the cafeteria at 1:30 and walk over to the rehearsal building (which I have not been to yet). *facepalm* Dang it. Not only am in the wrong place, but I would have been in the right place if I hadn't walked half way across town. Now, I'm late. 

Ancient Jesuit School

Someone gives me directions to the tram depot, what line to take, and what stop to listen for (sounds like this...as I frantically write down my phonetic comprehension). Somehow, I manage to get off at the right stop and spot some AIMSers walking. I run up to them and ask if they know where the building is. Thankfully, yes, they do. I know I wouldn't have found it on my own (I had no idea which direction to go after I got off the bus). 

By the time I get to the class it's 2:10. I grab a German vocab sheet and sit down as they're discussing restaurant customs and how to order food, tip, etc. I was too tired to be upset that I missed most of the class, and just happy that I at least made what I did. It was really too bad, I was looking forward to the class. I'll just have to ask other people who know German a lot of questions and study my sheet a lot. I wrote whatever the teacher wrote down on the blackboard, some of it about how to ask for your check and dealing with tips (more on this later). 

I tried to have a private tutoring session with the German 1 teacher, but at our designated meeting time, she didn't show up. I keep striking out, but it's certainly not from a lack of trying. 

This evening (12th) topped the cake, however. At this point, with this next story, I've learned you just have to laugh at yourself. Otherwise I would just want dig myself a hole and hide in it. I went to Gösser this evening to have a beer (I'm starting to find some that I like). My roommate and I decided we need to start saying any words in German we know as much as possible to practice. As we finish up we decide it's "my turn" to ask for the check. I look up what I wrote down from my Survival German Class and I practice a couple of times aloud to myself, clear my throat and say what I think is "check, please". I apparently got it wrong and the waiter thought I wanted another drink. I'm like "Ja, ja! *smile, smile* oblivious of the miscommunication. Thankfully my roommate interjects "Nein!" He figures out we want to pay our tab, and after he hands back our change I confidently and proudly say what I think is, "keep the change". 

That is not. at all. what I said. 

With a straight face, the older gentleman leans in to the table and starts quietly talking in German. At this point we both think he's conjugating, or teaching us grammar. Then we're like, wait, what? We recognize a few of the words he uses to describe the word I actually said. We're like "oh, no! nein!" Let's just say I was beet red and completely mortified. I think he actually told us what to really say, but I was so embarrassed I've completely forgotten my much needed pronunciation lesson. 

So far, I've learned it's possible I take worse notes than I thought and maybe my roommate should do the talking. At least for a while, while I practice.

Arrived in Graz

So today was the day: Atlanta to Philadelphia to Munich to Graz. I finally arrived at about 1pm in Austria or 7am Eastern Time.

I met a couple who sat across the aisle from me from Phily to Munich. As they were finding their seats, I saw their violin and viola cases and immediately knew they were musicians. We started talking and realized we were headed to the same festival. Of course we soon tried to figure out if we knew any of the same people. We played the “6 degrees of separation: Musician edition” and found out we had a number of friends in common. Wonderful.

When we landed after our overnight flight to Munich, what’s the first thing I see out of the gate? A Winston Cigarette Shop. Honestly, I can’t even remember seeing anyone smoke them in the city that they’re made in, but go out of the country and apparently they’re all the rage. I would have taken a picture, but felt like I should keep up with the group I had found. The next corner was a Camel cigarette shop. Apparently the Germans like their cigarettes.

Alte Post Studentenheim

As I waited for my connection to Graz I sat back and enjoyed the sounds of different languages drifting in out of my hearing. I couldn’t help but smile as I noticed how cool it all sounded. Not to sound cheesy, but it really sounded musical. In my defense, I don’t think there’s a better way to describe it. I have no idea what the people were saying, but I think I recognized French, German, and maybe Spain/Spanish, and another that sounded eastern European.

Now that I’m all checked in, I’ve been surprised to see a number of people I know including a few people from Oklahoma (who knew!) and another girl from a chamber festival I attended in High school. With the last one, it took us a moment to figure out where we knew each other. Because that was only like 10 years ago since we’ve seen each other (eeek!). Man, now I feel old.

When I was in the check in line at the Studentenheim, I realized I hadn’t exchanged my cash to euros. The people checking us in told me that there was an ATM right around the corner. I couldn’t miss it.

I hate it when they do that. I totally missed it.

 All in all I’m rather proud of myself for finally finding what I did. But, I still had to ask one person on the street, go into a pharmacy, and then after finally recognizing a bank, entering and asking 2 other people for help and directions. Sigh. I have a feeling this is going to be the modus operandi while I’m here. My survival German class is tomorrow. Thank goodness.

By they way, this is the alley of the street I’m living on. When we pulled up in the bus, my jaw dropped. This is the "dorm" we're staying in? Yeah, okay. 

After settling in, with camera in hand, I went around town and tried to find some dinner. I realized I hadn’t eaten anything all day (and night?) and was starving. However half way through town I realized I couldn't wait and needed to eat something pronto. I stopped inside a bakery and bought some sort of baked bread filled a nutty slightly sweet center. I’ll be better about keeping track of what I’m actually eating, but whatever it was, it was tasty. 

Well, I just found out I have seating auditions on Thursday, so I'm off to go practice!

Atlanta

After a short but sweet stay in Oklahoma, I'm now in Hotlanta, *ahem* I mean Atlanta. I successfully completed road trip number 2, a mere 12 hours for this one, thank goodness. I've driven over 2000 miles since Monday. Driving to NC to OK was good, I got all my thinking, praying, and general processing done. Unfortunately, for my OK to Atlanta trip, that means I had ALL my thinking done. Needless to say this last trip was a little more difficult. I arrived in Atlanta with a general road daze. Shocker.

Arrived in Atlanta at my friend Stevi's house. Her parents were kind enough to let a number of us from Winston stay overnight for the wedding. There wound up being 9(!) of us that stayed over- it was great to see everyone from Winston. My roommate's wedding yesterday was wonderful. I played violin along with some other friends during the prelude and ceremony. It's not often that I get to play weddings for people I know theses days. I'm emotional for friend's weddings in general (meaning I cry), which makes things even harder to do "your job" and keep the music going seemlessly. After my friend walked in to go down the aisle, I almost lost it, but kept it together enough to keep playing. I'm such a romantic, I love weddings.

She was beautiful, and I was really happy that it worked that I was able to be here before I left. It was honestly one of the must enjoyable and joyous weddings I've been to. And you obviously can't have a great wedding without dancing. We made sure we happily danced the night away. I love them both and am so happy for them.

Well the time has come, I leave tomorrow and arrive in Germany the 9th for a brief layover before flying to Graz. I'm still in a little denial that I'm finally leaving.

I think I have everything.
Passport (and multiple copies of it too)
Housing deposit
Violin and bow
Sleepless excitement
packed bags
and not a lick of German

Looks good to me. I think I'm ready to go.

http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/music-festival-fundraiser-and-concert/x/2824684?c=home

Oklahoma

My parent's backyard

Made it alive and well to Oklahoma, my first stop in the next few weeks of adventures. I made good time from Winston-Salem and arrived at 10:45 central time, almost exactly 16 hours of driving. Sheesh. I got out of the car and immediately heard the surprisingly soothing sound of lowing cows in the pastures surrounding me. Ah, good to be home. As I was getting ready for bed, I heard the yipping of coyotes from every direction. That's more erie than soothing. A gentle reminder not to take a late night summer walk while I'm home. It's probably more freaky hearing them than actually dangerous, but still.

Well, we've still got 15 days left on Michael and I's fundraiser. I'll continue to shamelessly ask for your continued support. Before I left, Michael had just finished making the cd's of our concert. I was well pleased with how it came out. We delivered two of our orders already, and the others will be on the way shortly.

http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/music-festival-fundraiser-and-concert/x/2824684